Go Important at Christmas – The New York Times
Good morning. We are now in the chute, heading towards the end of the year. It’s all checklists and traditions for me: the round I’ll warm up on Christmas Eve; The pork I ordered for the same day; drunken eggnog for adults; Cookies for little ones.
Will I ring in 2024 with a prime rib roast? This has worked well for the last few years, so I think I’ll do it. I’ve got my plans and you’ve got yours.
I’ve been thinking a lot about pork, though. Generally, I glaze it with a mixture of mustard and brown sugar, then cut it with sherry. However, this year I think I’ll follow Yotam Ottolenghi’s lead (above), and steam some halved clementines alongside the meat, then use that as a sweetening agent for the glaze. Yotam spreads some mayonnaise on the meat at the end for an extra bit of shiny shine on the skin. This is probably the most American technique I’ve ever seen him use – I can’t wait to try it.
A special recipe
Glazed Christmas ham
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That’s all in the future, however, it’s all still in my imagination. This weekend, I’d like a buttermilk grilled salmon, along with some sautéed broccoli. You don’t need to boil the vegetables: just fry them with a little olive oil and put them in a pan with a little water or broth. Cover and steam until done. very good.
I also like to make waffles, going back with a sourdough starter in the process so I can make English muffins during the holiday. And maybe some Italian subs will also see how they stack up against the Hoagie Gurus boys?
Then, for Sunday dinner, I’m thinking of oxtail and butter beans, to serve with coconut rice and some cabbage sauteed in butter until the leaves hit that perfect mark between soft and crunchy. With a Tarte Tatin for dessert, just to send a message to the Sunday scaremongers: Not today, devil.
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Now, it’s a far cry from anything to do with parsnips or tonic water fun, but I’ve been enjoying the return of “Shetland” on Amazon Prime. Douglas Henshall left the series, but Alison O’Donnell, who plays Tosh, stepped up and the island remains as beautiful as ever.
PJ Vogt looked into the issue of fish fraud on his podcast “Search Engine” this week. This is worth a listen.
In the New York Times, Dwight Garner covers David Mamet’s new memoir. If I’m not likely to read the book, I’ll appreciate Dwight clearing it out for a while: “I was willing to put up with his loose elbows, his burping, his dandruff, and the way he repeated himself.” Because it’s interesting and funny, at least part of the time.
Finally, here’s some new music you can listen to, while you’re thinking about what to cook: Nicki Minaj, ft. Drake, “Needle.” I will see you on Sunday.