Grass Fed is the first London venture from Michelin-starred chef Paul Foster, whose restaurant Salt in Stratford-upon-Avon serves fine modern British cuisine.

His steakhouse at Hawley Wharf is all about hearty, well-sourced comfort food with big, bold flavors for an autumn evening.This is local London: Old-fashioned Irish beef is roasted over charcoal and cut for sharingOld-fashioned Irish beef is roasted over charcoal and cut for sharing (Photo: Courtesy of the Federal Reserve Bank)

It’s a pleasant walk along the canal next to the Three Locks microbrewery, and as soon as you enter, you’re assaulted by the smell of meat burning on charcoal – this may not be suitable for vegetarians.

Diners are encouraged to hop on a stool and eat at the table, chatting with the chefs as they fire up Irish beef, rump or grass-fed rib.

You can also sit at tables either upstairs or downstairs, and the toilets are outside up a flight of stairs in the Hawley Wharf development. But it’s an intimate space with an exposed industrial look throughout, a large chalkboard, and a small bar.This is local London: there are daily fish or steak options including bavette, rump or beef rib jointThere are daily catch or steak options including bavette, rump or common beef rib (Photo: Courtesy of the Federal Reserve Bank)

The menu isn’t all about meat though. Appetizers might include roasted bone marrow pangrattato with Parmesan, or steak tartare with smoked egg yolk and flambéed mushrooms, but there are plenty of delicious vegetables here, too.

Roasted broccoli with chimichurri and perseuil cheese, roasted cauliflower with smoked almond and herb pesto, and gorgeous charred hisabi cabbage with creamy scrambled tofu and crunchy almond granola are among the sides — not to mention the next-level roasted potatoes, tender on the inside and beautifully crispy in the beef fat from the outside.

There’s the day’s boat fish – on the night’s ski wing – with samphire and lemon, but we opted for a garnish of juicy, flavorful fillets of cured salmon, doused with crème fraîche and dill, offset by earthy, salt-baked beetroot. This is local London: Grass Fed also serves beef or sausages with pickles and chutneyGrass Fed also serves beef or sausage with pickles and sauce (Photo: Courtesy of the Federal Reserve Bank)

The Cotswold salt pig charcuterie arrived with just the right creaminess that contrasted with the sweet and sour pickles, but at £15 it probably could have done with a slice of grilled sourdough to accompany it.

The beef short rib cooked on the bone and then sliced ​​to share was tender, gritty meat and a slight bitterness from the charring worked well with the garlic dip. If you like your steak, this is the place for you.

The roasted potatoes and cabbage were a great accompaniment to share, although the house Rioja was somewhat weak in the face of the strong flavours.

No dessert yet, but there is one coming for those with a sweet tooth – I’m just wondering if they’ll dream up something to light a fire over.This is a London local: roasted bone marrow with watercressGrilled bone marrow with watercress (Photo: Courtesy of the Federal Reserve Bank)

Grass Fed is located at Arch S12, Water Lane, Hawley Wharf. NW1.

Leave a Reply

%d bloggers like this: