“Korean Cookbook”, egg substitutes and more food news
Have you decided to expand your culinary repertoire in the new year? Published late last year by Jonghyun Park, chef at Atomics and others in New York, and Jonghyun Choi, a chef and writer, “The Korean Cookbook” offers nearly 500 pages of comprehensive illustrated coverage of hansik, or Korean food culture . It reviews the history, geography, vocabulary, techniques, ingredients, meal structure, and evolution of Korean food, all of it for the home cook, from fermentation, kimchi, pap (rice), banchan, and other dishes placed on the table to elevate that food. A simple bowl of rice. These include namul (vegetables), rolls, pies, broths, stews, dumplings, porridge and desserts. It has been repeatedly pointed out that although beef is prevalent in Korean restaurants in the West, especially short ribs, vegetables actually dominate the cuisine. There’s a lot to learn The 350 recipes are not a personal collection, but a written survey, with some simple treasures like wonderfully fresh raw bibimbap, japchae glass noodles, kimchi fried rice, and stir-fried cucumbers with rich marinated beef, all of which require easy-to-prepare ingredients. Obtains. Others are more challenging, requiring dried jujubes, salted shrimp, chrysanthemum leaves, and Korean pancake mix. (Possible alternatives are rarely suggested.) With its focus on regional cooking, the book is a needed map for those unfamiliar with Korean geography.
“The Korean Cookbook” by Jonghyun Park and Jonghyun Choi (Phaidon, $54.95).
Bone broth for one person
Chef Marco Canora was an early proponent of bone broth through his Brodo’s and Brodos, which sells it online and in stores. He started 10 years ago handing out broth by the cup like a grandma in an Italian village from the dining window of his restaurant, Hearth, in the East Village. Now, just in time for winter, introduce handy 8-ounce containers of broth, which don’t require refrigeration. Heating helps though. There’s a kick to the deep roots with ginger and turmeric, and a spicy nona with garlic and chili. Basic and Original Organic Chicken, with poultry bones and beef, are some other varieties; Tuscan Sun with rosemary and lemon, and Tom Yum that combines coconut, lime and chili are coming soon.
$5.50 for eight ounces, available in multiples and by subscription, brodo.com.
Forget which came first. The latest arrival in the world of eggs is not an egg at all, but a yellowish vegetable liquid called an egg that surprisingly behaves like a whole, scrambled egg. It is manufactured by Every Company, a biotechnology company in San Francisco, from fermented protein from yeast and refined egg protein (not for people with egg allergies). They can be whipped with a whisk to thicken, then added to a pan with some fat and mixed or rolled into an omelet. The texture and flavor were very close to the real thing in the pan. (Full disclosure: I used butter.) Although crème anglaise is usually made with just the yolk, I used every egg (along with dairy) to excellent results. At Eleven Madison Park in December, Daniel Humm used it to make a delicious sabayon sauce, custard chawanmushi, a classic crème brûlée, and to emulsify a vinaigrette. “It’s exactly identical to a regular egg,” he said. “It’s a simple, natural product. That’s what attracted me to it.” It does not contain fat or cholesterol. Fermentation appears to be the key to this and some other recently introduced animal protein alternatives. Consumers won’t find every egg in their grocery stores any time soon, but they will be available to restaurants in the coming months. The company also has an egg white substitute that it began selling in 2022.
Every Egg, everyegg.com.
All tannins, none of the alcohol
For those who notice a dry January, and even those who don’t but want to cut back on alcohol, there are two new non-alcoholic reds to please. What sets them apart is the presence of tannins, an element that is often missing in red wines with the alcohol removed but which adds depth, complexity and presence. A Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon aged in American oak, from Jøyus, can handle a steak. The new Misty Cliffs cabernet sauvignon-merlot blend from vineyards on the Atlantic Coast, in South Africa, also shows a bit of swagger rather than sweetness. It’s made by Reg Holder, the winemaker at Lauts, a South African winery that makes elegant, non-alcoholic white wines.
Joyus Cabernet Sauvignon, $28.99, Drinkjoyus.com; Misty Cliffs Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, $24, Mistycliffswines.com.
Panton says 2024 is all about Peach Fuzz
In 1999, long before “influencers” existed, the Pantone Color Institute, which specializes in color tips and trends for businesses and others around the world, began announcing its Color of the Year. It influenced fashion, home decor and more. This year’s color is peach fuzz, which Leatrice Eisman, the institute’s executive director, described in a statement as “radiating with warmth and modern elegance.” She said it “attunes with compassion, offers a tactile embrace, and effortlessly links youth and immortality.” What this means for food and drink is that 2024 will be the year of Bellini, the Venetian blend of white peach juice and prosecco.
Finding Sudachi just got easier
Fresh yuzu, an increasingly popular Japanese citrus fruit, is not an everyday item. Bottled yuzu juice is available for use in cocktails, baked goods, and to add sparkle to sauces. But suppose you need some Sodachi juice, from a type of Japanese lemon with similarly tart juice but a slightly sweeter flavor that is needed for a cocktail or marinade? Kanketsu Labo began selling sodachi, pressed from the fruit made in Japan, in the United States. Yuzu juice is also available. Both are made without additives or preservatives. Candied peels from various citrus fruits, such as yuzu, amanatsu, and setouchi lemons, are another specialty.
Sodachi and Yuzu Extracts $24.20 for 9.3 oz; Candied citrus peels, $5 per ounce, kankitsulabo.com.
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