Meat and potatoes lovers will love this place
Meat lovers will gravitate to the wagyu rib, veal, pork and charcoal oven-prepared pork chops…and then there are the potatoes cooked three ways.
Last month his Spanish Moda Restaurant has reopened on the inner-west of Petrie Terrace in a heritage-listed building that began life in 1912 as stables The police barracks was turned into a checkpoint A nightclub in the 1980s, it most recently housed the restaurant Burnt Ends, which closed suddenly earlier this year.
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Exposed beams, exposed brick walls and polished concrete floors form the backdrop to an array of emerald green upholstered banquettes and bare wood tables as well as a large open kitchen where Codina can be heard bending his chefs to greater heights.
Patrons can choose tapas and drinks at the bar, take a seat facing the kitchen stage, or settle into the comfortable leather chairs for a feast. Appetizers (suitable sized dishes) and various meats cooked in the Miprasa charcoal oven crucible.
Given that the city is hardly full of Spanish restaurants, Moda’s arrival on the edge of the Barracks development seems somewhat odd given that it is already home to Peasant, a long-time purveyor of a rustic version of the cuisine.
Will it be a duel situation? Spicy fries?
To add reinforcements to the Spanish fleet sailing to the area, Pata Negra Bar, a modest restaurant, has also opened in a small storefront a few kilometers away on Bardon’s Macgregor Terrace.
As an opening gambit from Moda’s tapas menu — the lineup includes asparagus with jamón, zucchini flowers with goat cheese, chicken croquettes, and stuffed piquillo peppers with tuna salad — a wild rabbit patty ($10) is a tiny golden dome on a pool of intense red. Wine law.
It’s perfect with a glass of Castillo Clavijo Rioja ($12) from the Spanish-accented by the glass list.
From 14 Appetizers -Maybe black pudding with roasted pears; Chorizo with pepper. octopus; Wallaby with sweet potatoes, or Without ribbons -Two small halves of garlic-filled Western Australian prawns over a bed of plump ink-coloured rice ($24) are the best, although juicy pink duck breast chunks over red cabbage ($25) with a walnut-studded salad are even better. Also very decent.
The wine list has a strong Spanish feel but there is also an interesting selection of less familiar Australian and New Zealand ales, a good French offering and options from Chile, Argentina and Uruguay.
Meat and potato lovers will be drawn to the range dedicated to the charcoal oven, including tri-tip, wagyu prime rib steaks, veal chops, spatchcock and pork ribs.
Fries ($12) can be had too Bravas or Chopped (A Catalan combination of mashed potatoes, cabbage and black pudding) or French fries ($9).
The Tri-Tip ($42) is a third-rate marbled, Angus beef from the Rangers Valley’s Black Onyx brand near Glen Innes, New South Wales, and has a lovely smoky flavor from the grill.
It arrives on a cast-iron platter drizzled with rioja sauce, sliced and fanned around baked pumpkin, tomatoes, fennel and two cobs of overcooked corn.
Dessert is a selection of tarts, pastries and macarons from a very large tray carried by the waiter.
A slice of apple tart and a slightly limp eclair filled with custard and delicious strawberries ($15 each) are reasonable, but some sauce or accompaniment would be welcome.
Co-owner François Le Sivant runs the front of the house and is a charming host, but service rises and falls as the restaurant fills up and staff pressure increases.
Fashion Tapas Charm Bar,
61 Petrie Terrace,
Tuesday-Sunday 11.30am until late
Wild rabbit pie
(tags for translation)South America